"Man makes his own fortune" painted on the underside of the stairwell at the Jain temple in Mumbai was just one of many curious and thought provoking discoveries on my amazing first trip to India. Hot, humid, loud and pungent India is all you'd expect and more as all of life is here. I'd never come across Jainism before and this strict sect is not only vegetarian but doesn't eat anything grown underground such as potatoes in fear of harming worms or insects that live in the earth. Admirable devotion but definitely not appealing to a foodie keen to try all the delights India had on offer.
From the iconic stone arch Gateway to India looking out over the Arabian Sea, to the dabbawallahs distributing many thousands of tiffin lunch boxes which are transported into the main Mumbai stations every morning, Mumbai is more than Bollywood and the financial hub of India. Over half the population in the city lives in slums, although the Government has done a deal to re-house the inhabitants and clear the slum areas within the next five years. Time will tell. At the other end of the scale, enjoying the luxury of staying at the Taj Mahal Palace hotel in the beautiful Heritage Wing was fabulous.
My favourite meal in the city was at Ziya, a terrific Indian fusion restaurant at the Oberoi hotel. If you're looking for a special dining experience whilst in Mumbai this is it. My starter was Almond Tikki - crisp almond crusted pea filling with spicy chickpea masala, sweetened yoghurt and tamarind chutney sorbet. This was followed by Ginger Tandoori Lamb Chops served with saffron infused masala mash, creamy black lentils with morels and truffle oil, with onion fritters and for dessert a "Choco Palette" comprising a warm marbled chocolate samosa, a cumin hazelnut chocolate brownie, rose petal kheer and white chocolate kulfi. Wow! The chef, Vineet Bhatia, has a Michelin star and describes his signature brand as "evolved Indian food". It was certainly the best Indian fine dining I've ever experienced and truly delicious.
After Mumbai came Jodhpur, the "blue city" so called because of the multitude of blue painted houses (signifying homes of the Brahmin caste and the fact the colour is said to repel mosquitos). Staying at the Umaid Bhawan Palace was a truly regal experience as the Palace is still home to the Maharaja of Jodhpur. Showered with perfumed crimson rose petals on arrival to drinks in the aptly named Trophy Bar, no wonder Liz Hurley chose this as her wedding venue. Spectacular. A unique evening at a tented camel oasis was another wonder, heavily lubricated with copious quantities of very alcoholic Indian rum.
Following Jodhpur a five hour road journey to Udaipur gave a true insight to travelling in India - with such heavy monsoon rains only just over the potholed roads were a challenge, combined with the roaming cows and the fact that anything goes. It's said that to drive in India you need three things: "good brakes, good horn and good luck". I'd add a comfortable air conditioned four wheel drive vehicle and a good driver. Then you can enjoy the lush countryside and daily life unfolding around you from the colourful sari-clad women going about their market shopping to turbaned men, children playing, bicyles, tuk-tuks and trucks everywhere, their karmic dance keeping everything moving.
Udaipur is a fascinating ancient destination and home to the famed Lake Palace Hotel, which sits majestically like a white marble wedding cake on Lake Pichola. It's a magical setting and understandable why this special place is a popular honeymoon destination as it's very romantic.
Keeping the travel momentum going Agra was next and a chance to see the iconic Taj Mahal. The chic Oberoi Amarvilas is the best place to stay as it's only 600 metres from the monument and every bedroom has a view.
Last but not least, Delhi - an attractively green city full of trees and reminiscent of Paris with it's wide boulevard style streets (although admittedly the style of traffic couldn't be more opposite). The Imperial Hotel is an absolute gem, cocooning guests in colonial splendour. Security was high everywhere on the trip and welcome so, but Delhi in particular is going to have to strive hard to overcome the current issues with the Commonwealth Games and serious shortfall with building completion outstanding and infrastructure not being ready to cope. It's such a shame if India is tarnished with a general concept of inability to get things done as in reality private enterprise can deliver and will clearly be an economic force to be reckoned with.
Whilst in Delhi I stopped for lunch at a place called Cafe Turtle at Kahn Market. Situated above a book store the cafe had some inspirational quotes framed on the walls and one in particular caught my eye. "Never Let Those Ruby Slippers Off Your Feet - You are born with an inner spark. This inner spark gives you a potentially radiant character and the capacity of knowing, loving and spiritually communing with the creative intelligence of the Universe. The ruby slippers actually represent the inner spark within us all."
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